Its all about pies – St Bees to Ennerdale

The first summit of the expedition was topped around 1pm today, Dent Fell, and, at last, the Tomlin House picnic is unveiled and a measly couple of mouthfuls of ham and cheese-and-pickle sandwich are grudgingly shared with me, they got four each…so it’s another second class day is it?  I will get them back and it won’t be nice.  

Ah ha cow poop….hee hee   

Only thing for it is to introduce myself to our fellow summiteers to see if they have some snacks. Futile, so back to basecamp and the fruit cake is out, not that the extra rumpage of all that food was the best idea, five minutes later we all plummeted down a black run, mostly upright, into the heaven on earth that is Nannycatch Beck.  High up on the list of most idyllic valleys with the benefit of a babbling brook to splosh along with plenty of opportunities to lay down to cool off and pose for the inevitable photo shoot, I am after all very handsome.   

Posing for snaps, I am very handsome


Low Cock How Farm looms and it seems my earlier blissful roll in some cow poop has not been wildly received and I am hauled into the shower for a dousing.  Groomed and presentable for dinner (sausages please) I caught forty winks while the team abluted.  

I have asked Camilla to write something tonight as I am a little tired, and VERY HUNGRY.  

Camilla here, the first stage of the Coast-to-Coast route from West to East begins in St Bees, if you stick to the original devised by Alfred Wainwright.  The first stage takes you up the West Coast towards Solway Firth, as we had clear blue skies we got an early view of the soon to be conquered fells.  Black Guillemots nest along the rocks here, however, we saw none, but plenty of Grebes, (all birds are Grebe’s to the Hurst family….they are nuts). 

At St Bees about the start the walk


The first pub we came across was the Dog and Partridge, about five miles from the start.  It was closed, as it was half ten on Sunday morning!!  Bodge was disappointed.  The next town we came to was Moor Row, where we expected to support the local community by buying a coke in the local Post Office, it has closed down.   

From Moor Row we found Wainwright’s Passage right next to the Cleator Cricket Club, a match in full progress, Bodge wanted to nip into the club house for a pint but was to be disappointed, again…  Bodge being a determined character came across a village shop which had NO PIEs but did have pints, and for £3.59 Bodge helped himself to a four pack.  I smiled wryly knowing that we were about to start the ascent up Dent Fell, which was a bit of a thigh burner.   

Moor Row - pies all gone


Reaching the top, I realised we all had a thirst on and so all drank Bodge’s beer with our picnic.  

Note the summit is not the first Cairn you come to with the huge pile of stones but rather a more modest affair a little later, see picture of Bodge with beer at the first Cairn and Rufus at the second.  

Beers from Moor Row




After a one hour lunch break and four hours walking we made our descent, incredibly steep, into Nannycatch Beck, as described by Rufus – see picture in Rufus’ words above.  It is actually one of my favorite parts of the whole C2C walk  

Low Cock How Farm, around twenty minutes walk from Ennerdale Bridge, is at the bottom of this stretch.  On arrival we were met by our host and provided with a cup of tea and chocolate biscuits.  We walked down for supper in Ennerdale, the Shephards Arms Hotel/Pub…which we had tried to book but which was full.

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